My Latest In Oregon Wine Press: Terroir Whisperer

Terroir Whisperer

International expert digs into Willamette Valley

By L.M. Archer

Pedro Parra, wiping his sweaty brow, heaves a soil-smeared pickaxe from the chest-high pit surrounding him. A backhoe looms above the burly, bearded man, a silent sentinel and partner-in-crime to this scene of calculated destruction stretching under Oregon’s late afternoon sky. Parra sighs and hoists himself out of the hole, dusting dirt off his smudged jeans and shirt.

It’s not easy being a terroir whisperer. Read the full article here.

Copyrighted 2017 L.M. Archer | binNotes | redThread™. All Rights Reserved

 

BKWine Magazine | Artisan Winemaker Don Hagge of Vidon Vineyard, Oregon

Dear Readers:

FYI:

 Paris-based BKWine Magazine now features my interview with artisan wine maker and former NASA rocket scientist Don Hagge of Vidon Vineyard in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.

Read the full article here.

Read the full article in Swedish here.

Copyrighted 2017 L.M. Archer | binNotes | redThread™. All Rights Reserved.

Wine Industry Insight Features “The New French Paradox”

Wine Industry Insight Features “The New French Paradox”

Dear Readers:

Just wanted to alert you that today’s Wine Industry Insight North American Regional Wine News section features my latest article “The New French Paradox”, now available in the March issue of Oregon Wine Press. 

Nice way to start the week – cheers!

Copyrighted 2017 L.M. Archer \ binNotes | redThread™.  All Rights Reserved.

My latest in Oregon Wine Press: The New French Paradox

My latest in Oregon Wine Press: The New French Paradox

Dear Readers:

I wanted to share with you my latest feature in the March 2017 issue of Oregon Wine Press:

The New French Paradox

by L.M. Archer

The term “French Paradox” emerged in the ’80s to describe that country’s contradictory high-fat diet coupled with its low incidence of heart disease. Today, another “French Paradox” plays out; this one, in Burgundy. While the region grapples with a new normal of rising weather catastrophes, lower yields, as well as increasing land and production costs, domaines and vignerons search for opportunity elsewhere.

The Drouhin family (from left), Laurent, Véronique, Philippe and Frederic, has made a second home here in Oregon. Photo by Mathieu Garçon

For many Burgundians, that search leads to Oregon. Visionaries like Maison Joseph Drouhin rooted early in its volcanic and sedimentary soils. Other houses followed, like Maison Louis Jadot and Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, along with legendary vignerons like Dominique Lafon of Domaine des Comtes Lafon. As a result, today’s Old World Burgundy and New World Oregon enjoy a complementary relationship based upon an overarching respect for Pinot Noir in particular, for terroir in general and for excellence overall. Read more here.

Copyrighted 2017 L.M. Archer \ binNotes | redThread™.  All Rights Reserved.

The Hedonistic Taster | № 13 | Vidon Vineyard

The Hedonistic Taster |  № 13 | Vidon Vineyard 

Chehalem Mountains AVA | Willamette Valley, OR.

by L.M. Archer, FWS | Bourgogne ML

Tastevin

“Wine should not be regarded simply as a beverage, but as an art of living, a pleasure.” – Henri Jayer

Welcome to The Hedonistic Taster, a binNotes | redThread™ trade sampling of gorgeous, small-lot artisan pours in an intimate tasting format.

The title derives from the term ‘hedonistic tasting,’ coined by legendary Burgundian vigneron Henri Jayer. Santé!

Today’s Tasting:

Vidon Vineyard | Chehalem Mountains AVA  | Willamette Valley, OR.

vidonlogo

“A petite vineyard with a boutique winery.”

Ok, wine astronauts, buckle up and prepare for takeoff as we taste through samples of Vidon Vineyard 100% estate-grown Oregon Pinot Noir – including a 2012-2014 vertical sampler of 3-Clone cuvées and a special series of 2014 single-clone offerings – all crafted by former NASA astrophysicist-turned-artisan wine maker Don Hagge.

These small-lot wines reflect the owner – easy-going, unpretentious and approachable.

View my exclusive interview with Vidon Vineyard owner and rocket-scientist-turned-artisan wine maker Don Hagge here.

14_VidonMirabelleClone115PinotNoir

Wine: VIDON Vineyard  Mirabelle Clone 115  Estate Oregon Pinot Noir 

Vintage: 2014

Alcohol: 14.3 %

Suggested Retail: $50

Production: 100 cases.

Specs

TASTING NOTES:

Robe: Obscure ruby robe.

Nose:  Linear red fruit, predominately red raspberry.

Palate: Red raspberry, briary, sous bois notes. Light body, medium acid, minimal tannins/finish.

Suggested Pairings: Perfect, agreeable grab-and-go for game night at the neighbors over lip-smacking finger foods.

 

14_VidonBrigitaClone777PinotNoir

Wine: VIDON Vineyard Brigita Clone 777 Estate Oregon Pinot Noir 

Vintage: 2014

Alcohol: 14.3%

Suggested Retail: $50

Production: 125 cases.

Specs

TASTING NOTES:

Robe: Clouded garnet robe.

Nose:  Rainier cherry, pomegranate, cranberry nose.

Palate: Hard red cherry candy, black pepper, bramble, sous bois notes. Light body, medium acids, minimal tannins.

Suggested Pairings: Easy-breezy accompaniment to wild rice and cranberry stuffed game, or seared tuna with pomegranate coulis.

14_VidonHansClonePinotNoir

Wine: VIDON Vineyard Hans Clone Pommard Estate Oregon Pinot Noir 

Vintage: 2014 

Alcohol: 14.3%

Suggested Retail: $50

Production: 148 cases.

Specs

TASTING NOTES:

Robe: Roiled, fuscia-tinged raspberry robe.

Nose:  Hi-toned red fruit, barnyard, noisette finish.

Palate: Red fruits, hazelnut, pepper finish. Light body, medium acids, light tannins/finish.

Although a Pinot Noir,  this wine evokes a Cru Beaujolais from Fleurie or Régnié.

Suggested Pairings: Sidle this little number up to some hazelnut-crusted ahi.

14_Vidon3ClonePinotNoir

Wine: 2014 VIDON Vineyard 3 Clones Estate Oregon Pinot Noir 

Alcohol:  14.3%

Suggested Retail: $40

Production: 710 cases.

Specs

TASTING NOTES:

Robe: Sheer ruby robe.

Nose: Pomegranate, earth, umami back note.

Palate: Bing cherry, red vine licorice, ripe raspberry. Acid plus, medium tannin, raspish finish.

A note about the harvest: Wine wags deem the 2014 Willamette Valley harvest “the vintage of a lifetime,” owing to an unblemished growing season from bud break through harvest,  producing record-breaking quality fruit of exceptional balance.

Suggested Pairings: Bring on the ‘fifth flavor’! This wine pairs well with similar, umami-rich dishes such as a leek and cèpes tart, or stuffed portobello mushrooms.

vidon_pn_nv

Wine: 2013 VIDON Vineyard 3 Clones Estate Oregon Pinot Noir 

Alcohol:  14.3%

Suggested Retail:  $40

Production: 480 cases.

Specs

TASTING NOTES:

Robe: Pellucid ruby robe; slight effervescence that dissipates with decanting.

Nose:  Peat, cherry; slight sulfur notes evaporate with airing.

Palate: Modelo cherry,  rose hip, white pepper bouche.  

A note about the harvest: This wine provides an unabashed portrait of a warm start out of the gate that turned difficult to choreograph at harvest as the rains first threatened, then arrived without mercy. A third of the wine growers chose to harvest early before the rains, another third harvested on schedule in the rain, and the final third harvested in October, which meant the potential for rot.

Vidon Vineyard opted for the former – to harvest before the rains. Welcome to the Willamette Valley.

Suggested Pairings: A conversation starter over just-baked gougères.

vidon_pn_nv

Wine: 2012 VIDON Vineyard 3 Clones Estate Oregon Pinot Noir

Alcohol:  15%

Suggested Retail: $40

Production: 530 cases.

Specs

TASTING NOTES:

Robe:  Deep garnet robe.

Nose:  Spice, cranberry, mushroom.

Palate: Linear red fruit and earth bouche, light body, acids plus, medium tannins, minimal finish.

A note about the harvest: Willamette Valley’s 2012 vintage proved one of the most glorious on record, unfurling warm days, cool nights, even ripening, and well-balanced acids and tannins.

Suggested Pairings: Reminiscent of a straightforward, spicy Bourgogne Passe Tout Grains. Pair with a daube, saucisson or equally rustic fare.

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Copyrighted 2017 binNotes | redThread™.  All Rights Reserved.

The Hedonistic Taster | № 12b Special Edition | Domaine Drouhin Oregon

The Hedonistic Taster | № 12b Special Edition | Domaine Drouhin Oregon

The Hedonistic Taster |  № 12b Special Edition

Domaine Drouhin Oregon

by L.M. Archer, FWS | Bourgogne ML

Tastevin

“Wine should not be regarded simply as a beverage, but as an art of living, a pleasure.” – Henri Jayer

Welcome to The Hedonistic Taster, a binNotes | redThread™ trade sampling of gorgeous, small-lot artisan pours in an intimate tasting format.

The title derives from the term ‘hedonistic tasting,’ coined by legendary Burgundian vigneron Henri Jayer.

Santé!

Today’s Special Edition Tasting:

Domaine Drouhin Oregon | Dundee Hills, OR.

ddo-logo

Welcome to a Special Edition of The Hedonistic Taster

In honor of the US Thanksgiving holiday, please enjoy these special pours from Burgundian wine maker Véronique Drouhin-Boss of Domaine Drouhin Oregon (DDO), wines provided in conjunction with my recent exclusive interview featuring Roserock Drouhin Oregon.

Drouhin-Boss’s wines unfold on the palate with a lithesome charm, offering attractive pairing options during the holidays.

Amazingly, these wines run between $35-$45, tremendous finds for any Grand Cru or premier Willamette Valley Pinot Noir lover. Moreover, they age beautifully – a bonus for collectors.

Please enjoy – and happy holidays!

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The tasting notes today reflect the wines I sampled from Domaine Drouhin Oregon (DDO), the family’s Oregon estate established in 1987 by father Robert Drouhin, where Veronique has spearheaded wine making since 1988; she also oversees the winemaking at her family’s Burgundy domaine Maison Joseph Drouhin, in addition to the Roserock Drouhin Oregon project. Her brother, viticulturalist Phillipe Drouhin, oversees all wine growing operations on their LIVE-certified estates in Oregon, and in Burgundy.

Drouhin-Boss describes the wines of Domaine Drouhin Oregon as “flirting with Chambolle-Musigny” one of only two Burgundian Grand Cru (the other is Corton) AOC’s allowed to produce both red and white wines, wines of perfumed finesse.

Indeed, the wines of Domaine Drouhin Oregon very much live up to their estate’s adage: “French Soul, Oregon Soil.”

2014-chardonnay_arthur_dh-web-medium1

Wine: Domaine Drouhin Oregon Arthur Chardonnay | Dundee Hills, OR.

Vintage: 2014

Alcohol: 14.1%

Suggested Retail: $35

Specs

TASTING NOTES:

Robe:  Luminous straw robe.

Nose:  Aromas of white flowers, stone fruit, citrus.

Palate: Subtle white florals and lemon curd on the mouth. Balanced, ample bouche, with an elegance and refinement that calls to mind Debussy’s Suite Bergamasque № 3 in a glass. Supple finish. Age-worthy 4-5 yrs.

Suggested Pairings: A versatile wine suitable for creamier dishes and traditional cuisine, as well as lighter, seasonal fare.

2014-pinot_noir_dh-web-medium

Wine: Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir | Dundee Hills, OR.

Vintage: 2014

Alcohol: 14.1 %

Suggested Retail: $45

Specs

TASTING NOTES:

Robe:  Deep garnet robe.

Nose:  An intoxicating mélange of red raspberry and cassis, dark cherry and plum, baking spice, and roses.

Palate: An intricate, silky millefeuille of savory spices, black fruits, smokey cherry, and hint of evergreen that unfurl on the palate with light-bodied elegance, transforming into a seductive, velvet finish. Age-worthy 10-12 years.

Suggested Pairings: A go-to for any holiday table serving game, fowl, roast beef, or pork loin. For the non-traditionalist, bœuf bourguignon.

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Copyrighted 2016 binNotes | redThread™.  All Rights Reserved.

The Hedonistic Taster | № 12 | Roserock Drouhin Oregon

The Hedonistic Taster | № 12 | Roserock Drouhin Oregon

The Hedonistic Taster |  № 12

Roserock Drouhin Oregon

by L.M. Archer, FWS | Bourgogne ML

Tastevin

“Wine should not be regarded simply as a beverage, but as an art of living, a pleasure.” – Henri Jayer

Welcome to The Hedonistic Taster, a binNotes | redThread™ trade sampling of gorgeous, small-lot artisan pours in an intimate tasting format.

The title derives from the term ‘hedonistic tasting,’ coined by legendary Burgundian vigneron Henri Jayer.

Santé!

Today’s Tasting:

Roserock Drouhin Oregon | Eola-Amity Hills, OR.

fleur-roserock

Tasting wines by Véronique Drouhin Boss resembles attending a piano concerto – each pour an elegant opus reverberating with its own inner core of subdued structure and grace.

Recently, I was lucky enough to interview the wine maker about her newest project, Roserock Drouhin Oregon, and taste through the wines crafted from this exquisite vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA of Oregon’s Willamette Valley,

Scion of Domaine Drouhin Oregon and Maison Joseph Drouhin in Burgundy, Roserock Drouhin Oregon fashions their cuvées from the estate’s 35 LIVE-certified blocks composed of volcanic soils, favorable aspects, and cooler temperatures overseen by her brother, viticulturalist Phillippe Drouhin.

Véronique Drouhin Boss describes the wines of Roserock as “flirting with Gevrey-Chambertin,” a Burgundian Grand Cru favored by Napoleon and renown for its intense, perfumed flavors.

Her wines raise the bar, and set the standard for Burgundy and Willamette Valley aficionados everywhere.

View my exclusive interview with Véronique Drouhin Boss here.

bouteille-roserock-2

Wine: Roserock Drouhin Oregon Chardonnay | Eola-Amity Hills, OR.

Vintage: 2014

Alcohol: 14.1%

Suggested Retail: $35

Specs

TASTING NOTES:

Robe: Impeccable pale straw robe.

Nose:  Bosque pear, lemon flower, slight eau d’evergreen.

Palate: Notes of meyer lemon, with an undercurrent of minerality. Light body, bright acids, lilting finish. Brilliant. Elegant. Age-worthy 3-5 years.

Suggested Pairings: Stuffed sole and brown rice with sautéed shallots, seasonal kale and cèpes.

 

bouteille-roserock-1

Wine: Roserock Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir | Eola-Amity Hills, OR.

Vintage: 2014

Alcohol: 14.1 %

Suggested Retail: $35

Specs

TASTING NOTES:

Robe: Brilliant, deep ruby robe.

Nose:  Tea rose, potpourri, cranberry and dark cherry nose.

Palate: Floral, dried fruit, black cherry with a back note of evergreen. Light body, supple tannins, superb structure, effortless balance, lingering finish. Age-worthy 7-10 years.

Suggested Pairings: An elegant wine of discretion mean to enhance, not overpower. Suitable for any meal that allows for ample discourse and delight in an artfully laden table.

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Copyrighted 2016 binNotes | redThread™.  All Rights Reserved.