L.M. Archer

Archive for the ‘France’ Category

Pinot: A Love Story

In Burgundy, Burgundy, France, France, French Wine, Pinot Noir, Terroir, Wine Tasting on May 27, 2013 at 8:13 pm

Yesterday, Andy the Purveyor of Only the Finest Pinots paid a visit. In town from Atlanta with his lovely wife to visit his equally lovely friends (all names save Andy’s have been redacted in the interest of national security), we discovered a kindred affinity for all things pinot while tasting Lachini Vineyards wines.

This was no ordinary visit. I could tell by the twinkle in his eye – that twinkle known only to those of us in that most secret of societies, bound by a shared love of all things Pinot, and most especially all things Burgundian.

With him, Andy brought a bottle of Chateau de la Tour Clos-Vougeot 2005 Grand Cru. Viewing the bottle alone brought tears to this Pinot-phile’s eyes. Uncorking it for enjoyment (later, of course) proved surreal. In my hands I bore one of the Holiest of Pinot Grails. Pinch me. On second thoughts, please disregard. For this is one dream from which I wanted never to awake.

Upon uncorking, the bouquet wafted heaventoward, a fragrance particular to the Côte du Nuit, and best described as delicately floral. The taste bright, with judicious tannins, discrete cherry notes, a hint of truffle, and lingering finish. Alcohol: 13%.

To anyone who carries a torch for Pinot, this is what life is all about – sharing the joy of this most expressive, elusive, and mysterious of pours with others of like spirit.

Merci, Andy & crew. Santé!

Copyrighted 2013. All Rights Reserved.

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#WW: Jean Kapsa

In France on March 20, 2013 at 8:10 pm

That’s right – it’s BACK…binNotes’ #WW! This week’s #WW showcases another of binNotes’ global tribe of artists, musicians, and writers, and wine enthusiasts ‘who consider wine and art, not just a beverage’.

Today’s featured binNotes follower:  Jean Kapsa (@jeankapsa), French  jazz pianiste extraordinaire.

Enjoy this performance at the  12.7.12 Jammin’ Festival in Auditorium Parco della Musica -Rome.

Courtesy Jammin’ Festival – Powered by St. Louis.

Performers:

Benoit Berthe – sax alto
Jean Kapsa – piano
Zacharie Abraham – contrebasse
Nicolas Charlier – batterie
Rosario Giuliani, guest sax alto

Santé!

Copyrighted 2013. All Rights Reserved.

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Burgundy Behind the Bottle

In Burgundy, Côte d'Or, France, French Wine, French Wineries, Pinot Noir, Wine Tasting on January 10, 2013 at 7:00 pm

Image: Wine Oh TV: Burgundy Wine Behind the Bottle

 

While doing research on a recent project, I located this wonderful video on Burgundian wine production by Bejot Vins & Terroirs. It’s a great little intro into the art of Old World wine making. It’s also a grace note on the Burgundian wine industry today. I’ll talk a little more about that in a bit.

First, the video presents a ‘behind the bottle’ look at wine production by season. Very briefly, these include:

Winter: Pruning

Spring: Bud break

Summer: Fruit set, véraison (when the grapes change color before harvesting.)

Fall: Harvest

After harvest comes fermentation, élevage (which literally means ‘bringing up’ or ‘raising’), barreling, and bottling.

As for that grace note on the Burgundian wine industry. The video producer, Bejot Vins et Terroirs, owns and operates vineyards throughout France, including Moillard of Burgundy’s Cote-de-Nuits. Begun in 1850, Maison Moillard of Burgundy sold to Bijots Vins et Terroirs in 2008. The transition from boutique family maison to industry powerhouse often sacrifices artistry over production.

Interestingly, recently (prior to locating this video) I had the opportunity to taste a Moillard – Mercurey 2009 Pinot Noir*. While not a Grand Cru or Premier Cru, the wine held forth with all the translucence, grace, and subtlety of any of its noble Côte d’Or counterparts. Bijots Vins et Terroirs appears to honor the spirit of Maison Moillard well. Sante!

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Copyrighted 2013. All Rights Reserved.

Bordeaux: Left Bank, Right Bank, WTBD?

In Bordeaux, France, French Wine, French Wineries, Wine Tasting on September 25, 2012 at 4:44 pm

Welcome to binNotes’ Terroirist Tuesday:  Bordeaux- Part 3 of 3: Left Bank, Right Bank, WTBD?

Understanding Bordeaux’s subregions is a lot like understanding golf – it’s all in the terrain. Winegrowers, like skilled golfers, play it where it lays – in Bordeaux playing through some atypical water hazards, sand traps, and bunkers.

Image: thetraveleditor.com

Bordeaux subregions include the Left Bank, Right Bank, and Entre Deux Mers. So What’s the Big Difference?

Left Bank

You don’t want to snag a left hook on the Left Bank. This predominately flat expanse borders the Atlantic Ocean, and falls west of the Gironde Estuary and Garonne River. It also boasts Les Landes, Europe’s largest forest – 2.5M acres of pine trees to foil any bank shot.

In Left Bank’s Médoc and Pesssac Léognan areas, home to such prestigious Domaines as Chateaux Margaux, Mouton-Rothschild, and Haut-Brion, the warm sand and gravel soils favor Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot varietals- making Bordeaux the Biggest-Little-Cabernet Sauvignon-Growing-Wine Region in the world. Wines here hit the pin with firm structure, high tannin, pigment, acid, carrying hints of cassis, cedar, and graphite.

Thanks to the fog-inducing, botrytis-producing double-bogey action of the Ciron River cold air meeting Garonne River warm air in The Graves and Sauternais areas, white dessert wines find their sweet spot here, along with tournament-worthy dry whites composed primarily of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc.

Image: domainelesoreades.com

Right Bank

No shanking on the Right Bank!  This stretch of Côtes (slopes), worm-burning plateaus, and knock-down valleys of cold soils clay and limestone favor Merlot and Cabernet Franc, yielding soft, silky, high acid dry red wines with notes of dark plum, walnut and prune. Hole-in-one AOC’s in the Right Bank’s Libornais area include Pomerol and St.-Èmilion.

Image:allfrenchservices.com

Entre Deux Mers

Fore!  Entre Deux Mers, meaning ‘between two seas,’ falls between the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers, and enjoys the highest altitudes, greatest terrain variations, and most wine varieties in the Bordeaux region. We’re talkin’ a little bit o’ sand and gravel, a little bit o’ clay and limestone, and a whole lotta water, producing above par dry red and whites. Same story, different side of the Garonne River regarding the fog-borne botrytis sweet white wines.

Unlike golf, in the winemaking world, there are no mulligans. Every shot, or harvest, counts. And in Bordeaux, it’s a game played by masters. Santé!

NOTE: To receive a recap of Bordeaux’s AOC’s by Region and wine style(s), leave your request in the comments section below.

Redux:  Last week we discussed Bordeaux’s blood-soaked history:

Part 2 of 3: Bordeaux: There Will Be Blood – and Wine

The week before we broke down the recent St.-Emilion 2012 Reclassification and what it all means:

Part I of 3: Bordeaux 2012 St.-Emilion Reclassification – WDIAM?

Copyrighted 2012. All Rights Reserved.

Bordeaux: There Will be Blood – and Wine

In Bordeaux, France, French Wine, French Wineries, Wine Tasting on September 18, 2012 at 1:19 pm

Welcome to another installment of  binNotes’ Terroirist Tuesday.

Last Week’s Discussion: Part 1 of 3: Bordeaux’s Classification System.

This week: Part 2 of 3: Bordeaux. A wine region steeped in history. A history steeped in war. Lots of war. But first:

Bordeaux: Some Facts

  • Location: SW Quadrant of France
  • Name ‘Bordeaux’ derives from the French au bord de l’eau meaning”along the waters”
  • “Along the waters” refers to the Gironde estuary and tributaries, the Garonne and the Dordogne rivers
  • #1 FrenchWine Producing Region – by volume
  •  297,000 acres of vineyards
  •  1/4 of all French AOC wine
  • Greatest % of Wine Estates in France
  • 2 regional UNESCOHeritage sites:
  • Largest man-made forest in Europe: Les Landes (2.5M acres)
  • Biennial Vinexpo Host – World’s Largest Wine Fair

Bordeaux: Some History

So, about those wars. First the Romans came, saw, conquered, and stayed in Bordeaux. (Pliny mentions Bordeaux’s vines in 77 BC.) Until Rome fell. And general dissolution prevailed throughout the land until the Middle Ages.

Of  Blood and Britain

In 1152, Eleanor, Duchess of Aquitaine married Henry Plantagenet, Count of Anjou. Henry eventually ruled not only Aquitaine, Gascony, and a large chunk of Western France, but also England – a Catholic nation at the time. And life was good. England needed wine for Mass, and claret for Court. Bordeaux blossomed into Britain’s vineyard. Until Henry’s heir, Edward III, refused to pay homage to the French king. And then there was war. Lots of war. About 100 years worth.

Of  Wine and Water

In 1453, France won the Battle of Castillon and expelled the British. Britain’s loss proved the Dutch empire’s gain. The Dutch drained the Médoc peninsula, planted vineyards, and exported wine. Lots of wine. Mostly white wine. And it was good. Very good. Then New World colonies wanted to buy Bordeaux wines. And it got better. I’m-stinking-rich-look-at-my-freakin’-opulent-estate-better.

Of Revolution, Pests and War

Until it got bad. In 1789, a little thing called the French Revolution occurred. Havoc ensued. But not so much in Bordeaux. Because, unlike the rest of France, most Bordelais vineyards were privately held. However, the port, well – let’s just say a little thing called protectionism, instigated by Napoleon, curtailed Bordeaux’s thriving port industry just a bit.

Ok, so business didn’t really pick up again until the 1800′s, thanks to railroads and Napoleon III’s  pro-merchant attitude. Just in time for the 3-pronged plagues of French vineyards in the late 1800′s: powdery mildew, phylloxera, and downy mildew. And things were bad. Very bad. Job-like, wrathful-God bad.

Until humans discovered a cure for the pests. But not for war. Two more wars: World War I and World War II. Thankfully, the Bordelais are a resilient lot. They survived the wars, and a depression, and a deep freeze in 1956, which killed a quarter of their vines.

Bordeaux Today

Today, Bordeaux not just survives, but thrives. Just like the vines. Quite a history. Whew…time for some Château Margaux right about now…Santé!

Next week: Part 3 of 3: The Sub-Regions of Bordeaux – Left Bank/Right Bank/Entre-Deux-Mers

Copyrighted 2012. All Rights Reserved.

Bordeaux: 2012 St. Émilion Classification Revision – WDIAM?

In Awards, Bordeaux, Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite), France, French Wine, French Wineries, Wine Tasting on September 11, 2012 at 1:00 am

Welcome to binNotes’ latest installment of Terroirist Tuesday.

St. Émilion, Bordeaux FR
Image: bordeaux-undiscovered.co.uk

Confused by the recent  St. Émilion’s Classification revision announcement?

St. Emilion 2012 Revision at a glance: What does it all mean?

  • Announced by Institut National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO) - Governing body for French AOC  & VDQS wine quality standards.
  • Revision rank tastings and inspections performed by independent seven (7)member body from outside Bordeaux, not St. Émilion Wine Syndicate or Bordeaux wine trade members.
  • No longer fixed number of Chateaux classified.
  • Estates now graded upon four (4) criteria, based upon a 20-point scale:
    • Tasting
    • Reputation
    • Characteristics of vineyard and infrastructure
    • Viticulture and winemaking
  •  (3) Classification Ranking
  • (96) Applicants requested examination for ranking – results as follows:
    • (4) Premiers Grands Crus Classés Level A (Highest)
      • Chateau Pavie and Angelus join Ausone and Cheval Blanc.
    • (18 )Premiers Grands Crus Classés Level B
      • Includes La Mondotte and Valandraud, two properties not previously ranked as well as Larcis Ducasse and Canon La Gaffeliere.
    • (82) Grands Crus Classés
      • Includes Faugères and Peby-Faugères, both elevated for the first time.
    • Estates missing from 2012 ranking due to mergers include:
      • Château Bergat (merged with Trottevielle)
      •  Château Cadet-Piola (merged with Soutard)
      •  Château Haut Corbin (now Grand Corbin)
      • Château Matras (now part in Canon),
      • Château Magdeleine (merged with Premier Grand Cru Classé sister property  Bélair-Monange).
    • Estates demoted include:
      • Château La Tour du Pin Figeac - not reinstated from 2006 demotion.
      •  Chateau Corbin Michotte  lost its Grand Cru Classé status.

Bottom line: Good news for consumers, who benefit from  St. Émilion estates eager to maintain quality in order to maintain ranking, as well as for industrious producers keen to move up the Classification ranks of a former seemingly insurmountable system.

Image: INAO

Bordeaux’s Wine Classification Systems at a glance*: 

  • 1855: First ‘Classification’ System
    • Introduced by Bordeaux’s Union of Commercial Brokers for Paris Universal Exhibition
    • 87 Châteaux ranked:
      • (1) from Pessac-Léognan AOC
      • (26) from Sauternes and Barsac AOC’s
      • (60) from Médoc AOC
    • Red Producers ranked in five (5) categories: 1st – 5th Growths
      • (1st Growth = Best)
    • Sweet (White) Producers ranked in three (3) categories:
      • Premier Cru Supérieur (Highest)
        • Only one in 1855: Château d’Yquem.
      • Premier Cru
      • Deuxième Cru
    • Geek Note: Few changes to the 1855 Classification System. Notable exception: 1973 elevation of Château Mouton Rothschild from 2nd to 1st Growth.
  • 1953: Graves Classification 
    • Sixteen (16) Estates ranked:
      • (6) Estates for Red and White wines
      • (3) Estates for white wine only
      • (7) Estates for red wine only
    • All estates from within Pessac-Léognan AOC.
    • All wines entitled to “Grand Cru Classé de Graves” status and “Cru Classé de Graves” labeling.
    • Geek Note: Only classification to rank wines, not estates.
  • 1955: St. Émilion Classification 
    • (74) Properties ranked in three (3) Categories:
      • Premier Grand Cru Classé Level A (Highest)
      • Premier Grand Cru Classé Level B
      • Grand Cru Classé
    • Only Right Bank classification system.
    • Designed for revision every (10) years.
      • 2009: Both 1996 & 2006 rankings reinstated after 2008 revocation thru 2011.
        • (74) Properties ranked:
          • (2) Premiers Grands Crus Classés A Level: Chateau Auson and Cheval Blanc
          • (13) Premiers Grands Crus Classés B Level
          • (59) Grands Crus Classés
    • 2012 Revision – September 6th.
    • Geek Note:   St.Émilion Grand Cru AOC in NOT the same as St. Émilion Grand Cru Classé rank; wine must be the former in order to achieve ranking as the latter.
  • 2006: Crus Artisans
    • 44 ’boutique’ wineries of quality.
    • ‘Boutique’: Small wineries entirely responsible for own production process from vineyard-barrel-bottle.

*(Excludes 1932 Cru Bourgeois unofficial classification system revised in 2003 and rescinded in 2007, a syndicate of 270+ Alliance des Crus Bourgeois members.) ©2012  L.M. Archer. All rights reserved.

 Still have questions? Leave a comment below. Cheers!

On Terroir

In Burgundy, France, French Wine, Oregon Wines, Pinot Noir, Terroir, Willamette Valley Wineries, Willamette Valley, OR., Wine Tasting on September 4, 2012 at 1:42 pm

Romanée-Conti – Burgundy, FR
Image: richardhaughton.com

“…What is honor? A word. What is in that word honor? what is that honor?…”

- Wm. Shakespeare, I Henry IV, Part V, Scene 1

Replace ‘honor’ in the quote above with ‘terroir’ and you have the beginnings of an entire new ‘catechism,’ and the crux of  today’s Terroirist Tuesday.

To begin at the beginning. ‘Terroir,” according to  The Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia: “…literally means “soil”, but in a viticultural sense terroir refers in a more general way to a vineyard’s whole growing environment, which also includes altitude, aspect, climate, and any other significant factors that may affects the life of a vine, and thereby the quality of the grapes it produces.”

Recently, Oregon wine maker Ken Wright riffed on terroir to a group of  2012 WBC’ers lucky enough to catch the Carlton bus. Like any true Willamette Valley vigneron, he noted the unique ‘responsiveness’ of Pinot Noir  towards its environment, but also the importance of terroir in winemaking. Likening the making of a great wine with a symphonic creation, Wright waxed on/waxed off about the interplay of  soils and seasons and stresses in creating nuanced wines of resonance and balance. This attention to terroir transmutes not just through the soils, but the souls, of  great winemakers universally.

And universally, the heart of terroir begins with the French. Karen McNeil observes in her  The Wine Bible : “It was in France that the fundamental concept of terroir (the idea that site determines the quality of the wine) became pervasive and flourished.”

Indeed, France’s esteemed Burgundian vigneron Aubert de Villaine of famed Domaine Romanée-Conti speaks eloquently of the winemaker’s role in relation to terroir:

The role of the winemaker is to enable the terroir to be in the best condition possible–to help bring forward (like a mid-wife) the product of the exceptional land. The role is to listen to the terroir.

-Aubert de Villaine, D. Romanée-Conti

Thus, one may argue that vignerons translate the terroir – giving the vine voice through the wine. And for those of you who consider wine an art, not just a beverage  - well worth a listen. Santé.

Copyrighted 2012. All Rights Reserved. 

#Terroirist Tuesday: Upper Loire Valley

In Cabernet Franc, chasselas, folle blanche, France, French Wine, French Wineries, Gamay, L. Loire, Loire, M. Loire, muscadet, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, sacy, Saumur, sparkling rose, Sparkling Wine, U. Loire, Wine Tasting on August 28, 2012 at 4:37 pm

Image: Pouilly-Fumé – parisbistro.com

Well, in the last two installments of Terroirist Tuesday, we’ve traipsed through the Lower and Middle Loire. Welcome to the northernmost (and smallest) of the Loire Valley wine regions –  the Upper Loire Valley. The area boasts some notable wines, namely Sancerre’s stealthy reds, Pouilly-Fumé’s explosive Sauvignon Blanc. It also kicks some serious caillotes in the rosé department.

That’s right – the Loire Valley isn’t just a pretty face, as in UNESCO World Heritage Sight  (Le Jardin de la France, ‘France’s Garden’.) No, it’s smart, and versatile, too. This region chews gum AND walks a mean pace. Hankering for some sur-lie Muscadet or Folle Blanche whites? Check. (Lower Loire.)  On the prowl for some ‘let-me-show-you-how-it’s done’ Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc or sparkling sippers? Check (Middle Loire.) Twitching for some sparky Sauvignon Blancs or wait-we’re-not-in-Burgundy-anymore  Pinots? Check and check (Upper Loire.) Oh, and just because they can – how about some  savor-worthy, under-the-radar Gamays and rosés? Yeah, that’s right  - Loire Valley doesn’t just win on looks, so you had best know what you’re about when you come a’courtin. Santé!

Quick Upper Loire Facts:

Location:  150 south of Paris and 70 miles east of Burgundy.

Climate: Continental, featuring the Loire Valley’s largest diurnal and seasonal temperature variations.

Soils: (3) different soil types atop a Kimmeridgean limestone base:

  • Terres Blanches (oyster fossils)
  • Caillottes (limestone pebbles)
  • Silex (flint)

Image: paulmarcus.com

Grapes:

  • Sauvignon Blanc: Smokey, gunflint profile.
  • Chasselas: Primary regional white grape prior to phylloxera – bright, citrus, floral perfume.
  • Chardonnay: In white blends of Saint-Pourçain and 100%  Côtes d’Auvergne VDQS white.
  •  Sacy (locally known as Tressallier): In white blends of Saint-Pourçain.
  • Pinot Noir: Only red grape of Sancerre.
  • Pinot Gris: Blended with Pinot Noir in Reuilly reds and rosés and Chateaumeillant VDQS.
  • Gamay: Blended with Pinot Noir in Coteaux du Giennois and Chateaumeillant VDQS.

Upper Loire AOC’s 

  • Sancerre
  • Pouilly-Fumé
  • Pouilly-Sur-Loire
  • Menetou-Salon
  • Reuilly
  • Quincy
  • Coteaux du Giennois
  • Saint Pourçain
  • Côte Roannaise
  • Châteaumeillant

Upper Loire VDQS’s:

VDQS stands for Vin Delimite de Qualité Supérieure – the French interim level ranking for wines awaiting AOC status. (i.e., Wine Pergatory) This often translates into quality wines at value prices.

  • Côtes d’Auvergne VDQS: 100% Chardonnay whites and Gamay/Pinot Noir reds and rosés.

Image: getintravel.com

 

Copyrighted 2012. All Rights Reserved.

??Last Week’s Quiz Answers??:

1. The two major grape varietals of the Loire Loire are: Muscadet and Folle Blanche.

2. Bonus Question: Melon de Bourgogne is also known as: Muscadet.

Have a question or comment about Terroir Tuesday? Leave in the comment section below – cheers!

#Terroirist Tuesday: Part 2

In France, French Wine, Gewurtztraminer, L. Loire, Loire, M. Loire, Sauvignon Blanc, Wine Tasting on August 21, 2012 at 2:17 am

 First Stop: Lower Loire Valley

Image:daysontheclaise.blogspot.com

Terroirist Tuesday© is baaack…when last we met, dear readers, binNotes had meandered from her usual ‘less-is-more’ text and ‘a picture IS worth a 1000 words’ graphics format, to an experimental ‘let’s drop y’all into the Middle Loire Valley and lull you to sleep with dull facts and even duller graphics ‘ albatross of an entry (…it SEEMED like a good idea at the time….)

Anyway…as they say in WBC12-Land: ‘be true to your voice’…so without further ado, binNotes bids you ‘Terroirist Tuesday’ – the timesuck-less version.

Terroirist Tuesday: Part 2 – The Lower Loire Valley

Bonus Question:

Copyrighted 2012. All Rights Reserved.

BONUS:

The reader who correctly answers the most ‘Terroirist Tuesday’ quizzes through December 21, 2012 will win a bottle of  wine, hand-selected by binNotes, to enjoy on Armeggedon 2012. (Only 4 more months to oblivion…) Cheers!

 

WITWW binNotes? Kirkland Summerfest 2012!

In Rosé, French Wineries, France, French Wine, Foodie, Rhone, S. Rhone, Restaurant, SW France, Provence on August 12, 2012 at 8:53 pm

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

 Views from the deck of  The Grape Choice during Kirkland’s Summerfest this weekend …binNotes and friends takin’ one for Team Francophile yet again…SO much fun in the sun! Santé!

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